Sitting on the legendary Silk Route, surrounded by oases and hot springs, this is a building with history, where gold, ivory and spice traders would hole up and gossip. It has been beautifully restored and is utterly enchanting, unlike anywhere else you have been before. With large wooden doors, vertiginously high ceilings, carpeted brick floors and little wooden ladders up to your raised bed, hidden behind a wall of heavy curtains, it’s Harry Potter-gone-Persian. There’s an exquisite dining room where you feast on chicken with walnuts and pomegranate and bowls of saffron rice.
Here, in the midst of a vast desert plain flanked by mountains, this 400-year-old brick caravanserai has been restored to accommodate travellers the same way it did when it was active on the trans-Asia trade routes.Well, almost as it did.